Interesting Times in Shimokawa
Imagine if you will, a foreigner traveling to America with a mental picture of New York City or Los Angeles, and instead arriving somewhere in western Kansas. This has been my experience for the past eight months since coming to Japan to teach English, and I have learned what inaka — or countryside — really means. The people are nice, but diversity is not a word that finds many uses out here. Most people haven’t left the island of Hokkaido, much less the country of Japan. This is what makes the town of Shimokawa (not where I’m living, but nearby) so remarkable.
Let’s start with the basics: Shimokawa is a small farming town in north-central Hokkaido, the northernmost and least densely-populated of Japan’s major islands. Winter is a hellish beast up here (and I say this as someone who’s lived in Minnesota for four years), with snow piling up higher than a man in some places, and strong winds generating blizzards even on clear days. None of this is terribly exceptional for the area. But wait! There’s more.
Locally, Shimokawa is known for two major festivals held every year. The first and most famous is the ice candle festival, in which Great Wall Park (it does actually have a two-kilometer, shortened replica of the Great Wall of China, with a walking trail along the top) is decorated with multi-colored lights, snow and ice sculptures, and thousands of ice candles. The combined effect is stunning. If you’re wondering what an ice candle is, try this little exercise one winter (assuming you live somewhere cold), take a bucket and fill it with water. Leave it outside for the night to freeze. In the morning, slide the ice out of the bucket. The sides will be intact, but the middle will still be liquid. Break the ice on the bottom, and drain out the water inside. Finally, place a candle in your new holder and light it. Voila!
The other festival is the annual Penis Festival. Yes, you read that right. It’s actually a combination of three festivals seen more commonly in Japan: a harvest festival, a fertility festival, and a mikoshi festival. The latter festival is where maybe 30 men bounce a portable shrine around town on their shoulders to scare away bad spirits. Of course, portable in this case is defined as weighing a metric ton and being supported on unforgiving square wooden beams. In the Penis Festival, a virgin woman mounts a platform and straddles a giant phallus (with much applause from the audience). She then seats herself beside the penis and is lifted into the air by 30 naked men. They then parade around while the crowd hurls buckets of water at them to symbolize rain and ensure a good harvest. Of course, as with all such grueling rituals in Japan, alcohol is free and freely flowing which helps soothe the pain of heavy wooden beams pounding your shoulder, and the traditionally reserved Japanese crowd displays a jubilance rarely seen when people are sober. When the last of the buckets have been emptied, they set the platform down and the ceremony is over, except, of course, for the 30 dripping wet, drunk, naked men looking for something to do.
Even with these two great festivals, what really makes this town stand out is its inhabitants. Despite its small size and often-inclement weather, Shimokawa has managed to attract several exceptional citizens who give the town a character unlike any I’ve seen in Japan.
Let’s start off with the big guy. They call him Iron Chef because . . . well, because he’s an Iron Chef. Kind of makes sense, doesn’t it? You remember, that Japanese cooking show that was really popular a while ago? For some reason he decided to settle down in Shimokawa and open up a restaurant. The style is a bit different than what you might be expecting. For starters, it’s reservation only. That’s pretty unique for a town of around 4,000 people, but there’s a reason for it: when you make the reservation, you make your order at the same time. Not your precise order, of course. You tell him what type of food you’d like (for example, Italian) and the approximate price you’d like to pay. That’s it. When you arrive, he has everything prepared for you. All you have to do is sit down and enjoy a truly first-class meal. Now personally, I was wondering how he managed to make a living running a restaurant like that. I mean, living expenses in Shimokawa aren’t that high, but at the same time, there’s probably not a lot of demand for $40-per-meal restaurants here. The answer is that even though he has a professional kitchen, this is merely his hobby. He’s also a professional artist and calligrapher who occasionally gives lessons. Like most folks here, he enjoys the slower pace of small town life and doesn’t seem to care that he could be making a fortune in any city in Japan with his set of skills. He cooks and paints because he enjoys it . . . and that’s all.
To add a bit of international flavor to the town, there’s also a lover of all things Mongolian. He’s been to the central-Asian country several times, and one time, brought back a ger (a.k.a. yurt). It’s quite large, and easy to keep warm even in the bitter winters. Unlike the Iron Chef, he doesn’t own a restaurant, but every Ice Candle Festival (and perhaps during other festivals as well) he sets up his ger nearby and serves some nice Mongolian dishes in addition to some more common confectionaries. The real highlight, though, is the tea. It’s made out of some fruit or other that I’ve never able to track down. I’d be hard pressed to describe the taste, but imagine the taste you would expect from something called “passion fruit tea” after you squeezed a bit of lemon into the cup. That’s not quite right, but it’s close. Regardless, it’s quite delicious, just what you need to revitalize your frozen limbs after touring the brilliantly lit park. His English is quite understandable too, so while you are warming up, you have good company and conversation ranging from tales from Mongolia to stories about Asashoryu, a Mongolian native and the only current sumo Grand Champion. As if that weren’t enough, he’s also a published manga (comic) author, though unfortunately his works are only really known locally. Given how little Japanese I know I can’t comment on the quality of his books, but he has gotten them published so they must be worth something.
A much more famous manga author whose works are read throughout Japan also lives in Shimokawa. His most famous series is titled after (and about) his dog, Ushi (ushi means “cow” in Japanese and refers to the dog’s coloring), and their adventures traveling through Hokkaido. He’s a shy person who likes camping, which comes through in the stories. It’s great publicity for Shimokawa and the rest of Hokkaido. Hell, they even feature my own county and the salmon wrestling that takes place during some festivals here. Given that he’s so shy, I’ve never actually met him, but I have on occasion browsed through his works while waiting for my meal at the local Indian restaurant.
Occasionally featured in the aforementioned manga is Ushi’s brother, Charlie. Charlie belongs to a couple in Shimokawa who run an amazingly good Indian restaurant out of their farmhouse. It’s part cozy restaurant and part museum. They love traveling, and often bring home strange knick-knacks from all over the globe, such as a wooden frog sculpture from Vietnam that sounds like a frog’s croaking if you run a wooden peg along its back. The restaurant itself is fairly small, with only five tables that can seat around four people each. Six if they displace the cat. The owners are the only two employees and they’re eager to talk with their guests. In my case, it helps immensely that they speak excellent English. The menu ranges from emu meat (there’s also an emu farm in town) to more traditional curry and chapaties. While the food is outstanding, they also offer the ultimate in beverages: fresh plum juice. You may not believe me when I say this, but I assure you, this is ambrosia, the nectar of the gods. A mere sip is a transcendental experience that has never been equaled by any other taste; at least none that I’ve been privy to.
So there you have it. If you’re ever in the northern Hokkaido area and in the mood for a good meal or a strange festival, make a point of stopping by Shimokawa. You’ll probably have to ask for directions, but the locals are friendly and the highway signs are all in English.
Matt Hansen would like to thank Greer Pedoe, the current assistant English teacher in Shimokawa, for both showing him around the town and helping to fill in some of the gaps in his knowledge of the town.
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