Dairy Queen: The Lovable Franchise
Dairy Queen doesn’t seem like the sort of place I ought to be enthused about.
But despite its 5,700 locations in 24 countries, each serving pretty much the same standard American fare, I can’t bring myself to dislike Dairy Queen. In fact, I seldom pass up a good excuse to go there for a Blizzard or an ice cream cone — for me, seeing its red dollop sign initiates the kind of pavlovian drooling reflex that marketers dream about.
I must acknowledge that nostalgia is part of the reason for my attachment — along with Friendly’s, Dairy Queen was the place where my family went out for ice cream when I was a kid. Warm summer evenings when a vanilla cone seemed as large as my head are still vivid in my mind, and these good memories surely operate on a subconscious level to make me enjoy going to DQ more than I otherwise would.
However, I don’t think my soft spot for Dairy Queen is just nostalgia — it’s quite a bit different from other all-to-omnipresent franchises. Every time I see an Applebee’s ad chirping about “eatin’ good in the neighborhood,” it makes me want to throw my shoe at the TV. The thought of people eating the chain’s bland, overpriced food amid manufactured personality in a building that has recently sprung out of a SuperTarget parking lot is depressing to me. Franchises like Applebee’s and their homogenizing effect on the American landscape inspire in me a deep loathing that makes it difficult to go to the exurbs without feeling emotionally wrung out by the time I leave. Dairy Queens may be ubiquitous in many parts of the country, but there’s good reason I don’t have the same reaction to them.
For one, DQ is a lot older than most franchise chains. The first Dairy Queen opened in Joliet, Illinois in 1940, and after a pause for World War II, the chain had its most spectacular growth in the 1950s, with 2,600 stores by 1955. These days, the majority of Dairy Queens have been around for quite a while, and are often local institutions in their respective communities (frequently small rural towns, though there are DQs in suburban and urban areas, too), a third placewhere informal social interaction takes place as teenagers hang out, retirees pass the afternoon and families gather after the softball game. (On a family vacation that brought us through rural Arkansas, I remember eating at a Dairy Queen next to a power-lunching Mary Kay Cosmetics saleswoman giving a presentation to a new rep while they ate their Blizzards.)
Age has given many DQ locations a patina of uncalculated character. The buildings themselves reflect their eras in a pleasingly mundane way, and the picnic tables outside are marked with stains from ice cream cones long past. This is not to say that their only virtue is being old, or that I’ll like today’s chain restaurants after they’ve aged. Many new franchise outlets have some sort of theme concept that, while usually attempting to evoke something of another place or time, is inevitably wedded to this particular suburban American cultural moment. I suspect that these themes— even mild ones like Applebee’s “neighborhood” shtick — won’t wear well ten or twenty years down the road. DQ, on the other hand, predates the idea of the restaurant “concept.” They sell ice cream and classic American food, and that’s it. It’s a lot simpler than Applebee’s and its brethren, and a lot more honest.
That it doesn’t try too hard to be something it’s not works in Dairy Queen’s favor. Owing partly to its rural roots and partly to its age, DQ has never really been “cool” (though I might see this differently if I were from a truly small town). For example, throughout my youth (and up until 2002), Dennis the Menace was the Dairy Queen mascot — an amusingly outdated cartoon character who most children probably didn’t even recognize as anything but the kid on the Blizzard cups.
Of course, I still wouldn’t have such a fondness for the DQ chain if it weren’t for the fact that their ice cream tastes really good. I can’t comment on the burgers and such, as the DQs in Connecticut that I grew up on typically didn’t sell that stuff, but the ice cream is good in a unique and gratifying way. The signature DQ vanilla is especially smooth, even for soft serve. And though it doesn’t actually taste all that much like real vanilla, it’s a clean, satisfying taste that doesn’t seem artificial.
The Blizzard — soft serve blended with other sweets — is another prime attraction. (DQ is currently celebrating the 20th anniversary of this innovation, which has been widely copied.) The variety of options available is one part of the allure; most locations have a long list of available mix-ins, from Snickers to Oreos. And Blizzards are blended on the spot, which means the mix-in ingredients aren’t frozen along with the ice cream; many such add-ins are much tastier when they’re fresh and unfrozen.
Fortunately for Dairy Queen, competitors often take the wrong lessons from its success. Cold Stone Creamery, a new upscale chain that mixes your choice of ingredients into ice cream, completely messes up the Blizzard concept by combining the ingredients on the eponymous cold stone, solidly freezing the whole thing. It’s done showily in front of the customer to give an impression of a premium product (or a premium “experience,” as the marketers might say), but just like Applebee’s and the rest, they’re trying too hard. Dairy Queen might be simple, but that’s exactly why I like it.
Teague Lyons (teague@professoryeti.com) recommends the Peanut Butter Cup Blizzard, though you can’t go wrong with a chocolate dipped vanilla cone, either.
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