Professor Yeti » Blog Archive » Whose Town Is It, Anyway?

Whose Town Is It, Anyway?

With the city of New Orleans finally beginning to dry out, its streets mostly cleared of debris but empty of much human life, the questions of rebuilding — how, when, how much money — are starting to come to the fore. The analysis of what when wrong in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina will drag on, but the greater concern for those who lived in the Big Easy, is not so much who screwed up, and screwed them over, as the town drowned, but the shape of things to come. What will the new New Orleans look like? How will it function? Will it become, as one resident cynically but perhaps accurately suggested to a reporter for The New Yorker, “Six Flags Bourbon Street”?

New Orleans is not all jazz, ghosts and ornate wrought iron, and the city of collective memory, of popular nostalgia, is but a small part — a high, dry, and comparatively still-intact part — of the town. The rest, unseen by conventioneers, Mardi Gras party participants and their ilk, is a lot more gritty, a lot more banal. It’s a city, with the familiar, details of urban areas everywhere: deteriorating housing stock, inadequate infrastructure, and people going about their daily lives, lives that do not involve plastic beads or voodoo dolls or trumpet players on every corner.

Or at least, it was a normal city, a troubled city. Now, it’s something else. But in any case, the quasi-theme park areas suffered relatively little damage — these are not the neighborhoods that need to be re-built, literally from the ground up. The French Quarter was relatively unscathed, and you can bet that the tourists will soon pour back in, re-flooding the town in a mass of drunken humanity, as people from across the country jump at the opportunity to drink daiquiris, eat po’ boys and listen to jazz, all in the guise of altruism and patriotism. In early October, city officials lengthened the curfew for the French Quarter to 2 a.m., the first step in the process of bringing the tourists, and their dollars, back to town; a New York Times photo of the revived nightlife showed an aid worker, awash in the amber glow of the street light, an orange feather boa around his neck, a comically large green top hat perched askance on his head, cell phone pressed to ear, his face a mask of post-party weariness.

In short order, more like him, and not just aid workers or others seeking to improve the city during the daylight hours, will return to the bars, clubs and streets of Bourbon Street and surrounding areas. The tourists will have their traps and trappings back, and how, and politicians at all levels will soon be slapping each other on the back and commenting on the renewed vitality of the place. Thank God we didn’t miss a Jazz Festival! Look at all these people! New Orleans is back and better than ever!

Meanwhile, away from the blinding lights and blaring saxophones, the Ninth Ward and other low-lying neighborhoods — that is, most of the city — will still be damp and depressed.

For these areas, a return to a pre-Katrina state is not something to aspire to. City infrastructure here, as in many urban areas, has long favored the bustling cultural districts and tourist-heavy areas. The old streetcar lines, which used to serve as public transit for the whole city, are now mostly restricted to the tourist areas — they are the theme park’s requisite rides, to go along with the haunted houses and costumed characters.

City Halls across the country are often more responsive to the CVB (Convention and Visitors’ Bureau) than the CDCs (Community Development Corporations). Visitors, whether attending a convention, seeing a museum or going to cheer on a professional sports team, clearly spend lots of money and help create many jobs — typically low-wage, service industry jobs, but still, jobs. And, reputation and legacy being powerful considerations in city council chambers and civic leader power breakfasts, those in the positions of power frequently are more inclined to push landmark development projects than less-flashy projects such as, oh, say, affordable housing. Not much glamour there.

Even in smaller communities, though, planning priorities sometimes skew to out-of-towners.

Northfield, Minnesota a quiet town just past the sprawling grasp of the Twin Cities metropolitan area, boasts of its primary amenities on signs on the outskirts of town: “Cows, colleges and contentment”; more recently, though, the contentment has been disrupted as residents debate the town’s future, and whether it will include those cows or, as is currently happening, replacing the farm fields and bucolic expanses with big-box retail. Some residents argue that this is just the next phase in the natural evolution of the area — and they leave the city to shop anyway; now they can go to the Target two miles away instead of having to drive to the one up the road in Lakeville.

Meanwhile, though, downtown Northfield — a perfect specimen of quaint, olde-timey Americana, with brick storefronts, a central square, and a river flowing through the middle — is changing as the competition becomes more intense. The influx of newer stores, many of them chains with wider selection and lower prices, has forced several locally-owned small shops in the main business district to close, including the venerable Jacobsen’s Department Store.

Downtown Northfield is not dying — storefronts often are not vacant very long, but when new businesses open, they are more likely to be gift shops and antique stores than to sell the wares and provide the services of everyday life. It may be easier to buy a vintage milk bottle now, or an old toy milk truck, in mint condition, than to buy a gallon of milk.

Well, maybe that’s a stretch. And to be fair, Northfield city planners, as well as many local residents, are striving to maintain the economic vitality of the downtown area. The debate over the new Target store, which opened in 2002, spurred a group of concerned citizens to start the Northfield Downtown Development Corporation, a nonprofit dedicated to studying ways to ensure the long-term survival of the central business district, and which received seed money from the Northfield Economic Development Authority.

I interned for the NDDC in 2002, and during my research I found that the city’s zoning code was more complicated in the downtown area, to the extent that it sometimes proved easier for entrepreneurs to simply locate new businesses outside of the historic area — thereby drawing more people away from the central core. Additionally, while there had been much conversation, dreaming and even planning about creating features that would both draw day-trippers and benefit locals (such as enhancing the riverfront areas), there had been little action or implementation. Great ideas and good intentions are meaningless without follow-through; that sounds like a cheesy slogan in a middle-manager’s office, but sometimes such things are true.

When I was working for the NDDC, it was unclear where downtown Northfield was headed: Would it remain a working downtown, with stores, cafes and other businesses filling the everyday needs of local residents, or would it become an upscale simulacrum of its former self? Other small towns, such as Marceline, Missouri and Fort Collins, Colorado, have cynically exploited their historic charms, creating a sort of theme park landscape. Marceline and Fort Collins were, in fact, the models for Disney’s Main Street, USA areas of its theme parks; now, in an effort to rekindle their flagging local economies, they have resorted to mimicking the counterfeit versions of themselves, with copious American flags lining the main drag, old-fashioned streetlights and other trappings of a Rockwellian vision of the classic American downtown. (These towns were discussed in a previous Professor Yeti article.)

Historic preservation is imperative for any city that wishes to maintain a distinct identity, to retain the stories and styles of the past, to ensure a unique sense of place. But artificial preservation, or re-creation of a false history, is something else entirely; it is the difference between keeping something alive and creating a wax copy that re-creates only the exterior — it may look the same at first glance, but the latter has no soul, no life, no real quirks. And it’s more than a bit creepy.

But the tourists like it. Heck, Madame Tussaud’s wax figure museum is one of the most popular tourists attractions in London. Why not go the same sort of route with a whole town?

If New Orleans residents fear “Six Flags Bourbon Street,” it’s fair to guess that many in Northfield shudder to think of the possibility of Six Flags Division Street.

Up the freeway from Northfield, in Minneapolis, the same things happen throughout the planning process: big dreams, slow or nonexistent follow-through, except on the big, sparkly, landmark projects. A trio of new buildings by celebrity architects (also addressed in greater detail in previous issues of Professor Yeti) are in various states of completion in the downtown area — the Walker addition is open; the Guthrie on the riverfront and the new central library are almost complete. The Minneapolis Institute of Arts and Children’s Theater both have just-finished additions by starchitect Michael Graves (perhaps best-known, actually, for his off-kilter designs for toasters, toilet brushes and other household items for Target). There’s a new light rail line, much-used, much loved.

But the new light rail goes from downtown to the airport and the Mall of America. Eventually, there will be a line connecting Minneapolis to St. Paul. Eventually. Wouldn’t it have made more sense to make that connection first? Convention-goers and tourists would still have to take the cab or — heavens! — the bus (or their hotel’s free shuttle service), but connecting the two downtowns would seem to better serve those who actually live in them.

Here’s another example of oddly-placed priorities: while downtown Minneapolis has 25,000 residents — more than Denver or Seattle, about the same as Atlanta or Dallas — it has no grocery store. Yes, there are several convenience store types of places at which one can buy toilet paper, a gallon of milk and Twinkies. And, yes, there are three full-service markets (you know, the kind with produce and a meat counter and fresh-baked breads . . . a real, honest-to-goodness grocery store) coming within the next few years. But no, there is not one now. You can go see shows at all sorts of theaters, imbibe creative martinis in countless watering holes, buy art, cheer or heckle three different professional sports teams, and do pretty much anything you could want to do in life. Except to go to a grocery store . . . at least not until next year.

All that culture is certainly a wonderful thing. World-class museums draw tourists, but they’re certainly important community assets, too, providing educational programs and, well, culture to the locals. But when these are the only things that city leaders care about, and when funding cuts to transportation necessitate fewer city bus routes, making it difficult for all residents to enjoy these cultural assets, and when school budgets are slashed, and arts programming and field trips are the first to get the axe, and kids aren’t introduced to the theaters and the arts and the music that make up the rich cultural tapestry of their city . . . when all of these things happen, and they do, the city has failed its residents.

In a recent piece in The New York Times, architecture critic Nicolai Ouroussoff offered up the New Orleans pump systems as visionary pieces of infrastructure — yes, they failed, but they were examples of broad intentions of civic responsibility, and they aimed to keep all of the city dry, a noble, monumental and, ultimately impossible task. American cities have frequently forgotten — or, due to lack of funds, been unable to act on — this duty to provide the mechanisms and resources necessary to better the lives of residents, not just the trips of tourists.

But Ouroussoff notes that there is a better model for revitalization, across the Atlantic, in Bilbao, Spain. Here, Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum has sparked astonishing economic growth as tourists flock to view its stunning metal-clad curvilinear forms. There is also, however, a new transit system, and this, even more than the Guggenheim, is the product of visionary thinking and the catalyst for true rebirth in a once-depressed city. Investment in a museum has brought the tourists, but the investment in infrastructure has demonstrated that Bilbao cares about its residents, too.

Doug Mack (doug@professoryeti.com) recently started a new blog and found a new apartment near Eat Street.

This entry was posted on Sunday, October 16th, 2005 at 8:55 pm and is filed under Features. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Responses are currently closed, but you can trackback from your own site.

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